SOME USEFUL HINTS FOR SAFE TANNING
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Origins
This explains its wide use even in remote times. Thanks to its empiric use and later to scientific research, the effectiveness of this plant has been well demonstrated. It is therefore no wonder that it was used to prepare infusions, decoctions and poultices in the folk-remedies of the past. The Rosehip extract is widely used in the cosmetic field, especially in the preparation of creams, milks and emulsions for the care of the epidermis. Clinical tests have proven how facial masks containing Rosehips have a definite toning effect and help fade hyper-pigmentation ("age-spots"). It is particularly recommended for those who need to tone and tighten their skin tissue. It is highly tolerable and easily absorbed by the skin.
Properties
Vitamin A, a derivative of carotene, is fat-soluble and is found in fat; it stimulates growth and trophism of the tissues and in particular the epithelium. It promotes good eye-sight and the nutrition of the cornea. A vitamin A deficiency can cause problems to the skin, the conjunctiva, cornea and vision. Vitamin A carries-out maintenance of the mucous membranes and the epithelium, in that it controls the secretion of the sebum and the hydro-lipids film, it promotes growth and elasticity of the epidermis and regulates the keratinization process. A vitamin A deficiency can be identified by the presence of a dry and scaly skin.
Much later, when other sources were found, mixtures based on vitamin A became widely used in the cosmetic field. Laboratory tests have proven that the daily application of creams containing vitamin A have a stimulating effect on the mitotic process of the skin. This has been of particular interest regarding the study of the ageing process of the skin and confirmed the importance of its use in this field. Moreover, it has been shown, through research in the Unites States and in Europe, how the properties of the vitamin A have an important repairing effect on skin damaged by the UV rays. Properties
This function is of great importance in the cosmetic field because it helps maintain the elasticity of the skin and defends it against premature ageing by protecting the cellular membrane.
The effect of the vitamin E as a moisturizer was examined by Pugliese who measured the water loss from the surface of the skin. He demonstrated how a single application of a compound containing 5% of vitamin E reduced the water loss by 18%, 30 minutes after the application. On repeating the application twice a day for 4 days, the water loss reached 24%. These results demonstrated how the re-hydration by means of applications containing vitamin E brought about a noticeable softening of the skin. Vitamin E is not a blocking agent, on the contrary, it penetrates easily and acts directly from beneath the skin. This vitamin also carries out an important anti-inflammatory action when used in pharmaceutical compounds for skin irritations, rashes and dermatitis. Its anti-inflammatory action is one of the reasons for which the vitamin E is used in sun-protection creams, in that, it reduces the painful consequences of an excessive exposure to the sun. Vitamin E also prevents the oxidization of other ingredients present in cosmetic compounds. Origins
A fairly common plant, it can be found along the road-side, in the ditches and in the woods. Its yellow flower-tops are used
for officinal purposes.
Since ancient times, doctors attributed diuretic and anti-inflammatory properties to its extracts; they suggested it be used as a balsam for the respiratory tract, as a disinfectant for the urinary tract and for healing wounds, sores and ulcers. Modern medicine has acknowledged its positive qualities in treating high blood pressure and depression, let alone its healing capabilities. However, this plant is being used less often in pharmaceutical preparations than in the past; however, some prescriptions still remain such as, balsams and soothing lotions for irritated and inflamed mucous and as an antiseptic: an infusion and essential oil can provoke a slight anesthetic effect thus decreasing symptoms of pain, irritation and burning. In the cosmetic field, the oil of St. John's Wort ,together with absorbable cosmetics, acts as a toning agent creating a stimulating effect on tired and sagging skin, sooths and refreshes the skin tissues and reduces rosacea; in fact, it can be considered an ideal component for cosmetics aimed at regenerating the skin. For greasy skin with impurities, creamy emulsions and milks containing extracts of this plant help to balance the excess sebum production, by bringing together a good cleansing agent with a mild astringent and toner on the open pores. The effect can be enhanced by using lotions and tonics. Due to its photosensitive properties, together with a correct sun protection factor, St. John's Wort is an effective ingredient in the preparation of pre-suntan cosmetics with protective and pigmentation capabilities.
Origins
On a commercial scale, the Californian cultivation is the widest and most appreciated.
For many years now the oil from this fruit has been used in the cosmetic field with excellent results, in particular for those special preparations demanding a replenishing mechanism. It can be considered and ideal lipid component in the preparation of pharmaceutical ointments and liniments for local applications, in regenerating emulsions for dry and aged skins, in creams and oils for suntan products: pre-suntan products with an emollient action and post-suntan products with a regenerating and healing action.
Origins
It is recommended for the preparation of emollient and massage creams, products for dry and aged skins, and as a rejuvenating element in the treatment of wrinkles. Wheat germ oil is a distinguished ingredient in the cosmetic field because of its bright orange colour and the absence of preserving agents. In the pharmaceutical field it is used as a vulnerary oil and in medicinal balsams and ointments.
Origins
The Jojoba is an ever-green shrub found in very dry climates. Its fruit (berries) contains seeds from which, once dried and crushed, either by a cold press or by means of chemical extraction, the oil is obtained. The Jojoba oil has a light yellow colour and a delicate, not too un-pleasant, odour.
Nowadays, this oil is present in the formulation of shampoos and balsams to make the hair soft and shiny, in massage oils and creams, in protection creams for delicate skins (as in baby products). It can be considered an ideal ingredient in bath oils, in various types of sticks (for the lips and body) and in facial cosmetics (as a bonding agent for the pigment used in foundation creams).
Thanks to its natural origins and distinguished purity, Jojoba oil can be considered as a safe and reliable raw material in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical field. There are no known side effects, (irritation, rash etc.) to invalidate its use. Origins
An officinal plant known since ancient times, it is distinguished by the particular and pleasant scent of its small yellow flowers that, once collected and dried are used for - apart from the well known tisane and infusion - the extraction of the functional active components useful in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic field.
In books relative to this subject, anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic properties have been associated to these compounds, let alone their capability to repair the skin tissues. Folk-remedies made wide use of the Camomile, whose derivatives are well known as a calming, healing and soothing agent for irritated skin, as well as having a light anti-spasm and anti-neuralgic effect. Camomile is widely used as a tisane and infusion both for internal use (sedative, lenitive, digestive) and for external use (skin softener, decongestive for tired and blood-shot eyes, lighten the hair colour, etc.,). Two other very old uses of the Camomile were one, to rub the exposed parts of the skin with the flowers during the summer season to keep away annoying insects and the other, to collect the dried flowers and tie them up in gauze and place them in wardrobes and drawers to ward-off the moths. Regarding products geared towards body treatment, the Camomile extracts are important components in the preparation of creams, tonics and lotions for the soothing of irritated and inflamed skin (that is, for those products destined to the care of sensitive, delicate and easily irritable skins), and also for delicate detergents, (specific types as in personal hygiene). In all these uses, other plant extracts, with the same soothing, sedative and refreshing properties, can be used with great advantage together with the Camomile (e.g. Calendula, Hamamelis, Horse-Chestnut etc.). The Camomile extracts are used in the interesting preparation of lotions with a low alcohol content destined to the depurative treatment for the cleansing of the skin (to facilitate the opening and cleansing of the pores) and the preparation of a subsequent treatment with a moisturizing and nourishing milk or cream. An identical effect has been seen in cosmetic products containing Camomile extracts in treating acne and the external treatment of rosacea. These extracts, used to sooth and aid the respiration of the skin, are also indicated for the preparation of aftershaves, post-suntan creams, let alone in baby skin-care products (delicate detergents, oils and creams). The derivatives of the Camomile are widely used in trichology (refreshing and soothing shampoos for itchy and irritated scalps, and shampoos which lighten the hair colour). Origins The name is certainly of oriental origin: or from the Greek word Alos (sea) which indicates that the plant grows near the sea or, as according to others, from the Arab word Alua (bitter) which is an accurate description of the juice of this plant. The Aloe is a cactus-plant, originally from tropical countries (especially South Africa). The dense, concentrated juice is a marketable product. It is very sticky and tends to solidify and crystallize. The juice is drawn manually from the leaves. Known for generations for its healing properties, the Aloe Vera was scarcely used in the past because of the difficulty to preserve its juice that contains the active components; modern technology permits the integral conservation of the healing properties of the Aloe thus putting the active components at the disposal of medicine and cosmetics.
Certainly the Egyptians, Chinese and ancient Arab peoples knew and used this plant. Dioscoride (100 B.C.) mentioned it in his description of officinal herbs, as did Aristotele when he told Alexander the Great to use the juice of the Aloe plant to treat the wounds of his soldiers and army. In the Gospel according to John (19;39), it is reported that a mixture of crushed Aloe Vera leaves were applied to heal the wounds of Jesus when he was taken down from the cross. Two emblematic events of the modern age - the discovery of the X-rays and the explosion of the first atomic bomb - have put this antique remedy in vogue. As is already known, the radiation released by x-rays and by the explosion of an atomic bomb cause severe burns and damage to the skin. In both cases, amazing results were obtained following treatment with Aloe Vera juice. Rodney M. Stockton, an American engineer, who personally experimented the effectiveness of the Aloe Vera juice after receiving a severe burn caused by an over-exposure to solar radiation, several years later developed a method for the preparation and stabilization of the product making it readily available for the treatment of burns and wounds. During the 1970's, there was an interesting return to Aloe Vera, not only as a pharmaceutical active component but also as an ingredient in the preparation of cosmetics. In the medical field this substance is used for its healing effect on burns, dermatitis and skin ulcers. The Aloe Vera subdues pain and hastens the healing and repairing of the skin tissues. Considering the fact that, following the use of Aloe Vera in the medical field without side effects, this interesting natural product followed-on to be used also in the cosmetic field. The same advantages drawn from the use of Aloe Vera in the pharmaceutical field are also found and put to equal use in the cosmetic field. In fact, in modern cosmetic formulations, the Aloe Vera extracts are used with excellent results in skin toners and softeners, creams to fade excess pigmentation and soothing products. In brief, they are used in products aimed at subduing irritations of the skin and mucous. It is not just used for the preparation of creams, milks and lotions for the face and body, but also for deodorants and anti-perspiring products; for this specific product the well known anti-bacteria properties of this plant are put to use.
Origins
It is in fact a spontaneous herbaceous plant: its intensive cultivation serves both for floral purposes (that is to improve the quality of the flower in its most striking aspect) and for industrial officinal purposes. The active components are drawn from the flowers of the Calendula.
Also of antique origins is the practice by which distilled Calendula water was used as an anti-inflammatory for the eyes and eye-lids. In the cosmetic field the use of its derivatives are particularly geared towards emollients and protection creams. Therefore, cosmetics containing the extracts of Calendula are used in treating delicate, reddened and scaly skins. Modern compounds containing Calendula extracts supply products for baby skin-care, pre-shaves and after-shaves, cleansing agents for delicate skins (e.g. neutral soaps), pre-suntan and after-suntan products. One of the most recent employments of the Calendula extracts is in toothpaste which acts directly on the gums.
Origins
The flowers from this plant are used for their essential oils which have anti-inflammatory properties.
For external use, Arnica was seen to be very effective in the cure of traumatic lesions (contusions, sprains, strains, muscular pains) and also in muscle-bone afflictions (arthritis, stiff neck, etc.,). Due to the caution and indispensable medical control connected to this substance - the tincture of Arnica cannot be indiscriminately used because of its potentially irritating effect - nowadays its impromptu use has fallen into disuse. However, for internal use, in small quantities and under medical control, the extract of Arnica is used to subdue burning or ailing stomachs and as a febrifugal, and externally for bruises, lesions etc. In the cosmetic field the Arnica extracts are used for their toning and revitalizing effect on the skin. They are primarily used in massage creams, toning bubble-baths, and in lotions and creams for pale atrophic skins, (giving them a slight hint of colour). For these employments, other vegetable extracts with similar functions can be used together with the Arnica extracts (in particular Thyme, Sage, Birch, etc.). Also for hair-care cosmetics (shampoos and lotions) the Arnica extracts are used to stimulate the blood circulation of the scalp.
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